Post by Karen R Quinn on Aug 12, 2009 1:19:57 GMT -7
Before you bringing home your new guinea pig, you should locate your nearest veterinarian, and go in to the practice to pick up any leaflets or advice sheets on basic first aid for guineas. The staff should be knowledgeable, and will be able to help you with any other queries you might have about your guinea pigs. Make sure to visit a knowledgeable exotic pet veterinarian, as many regular cat and dog veterinarians have limited knowledge of cavies and some may refuse to treat them altogether.
Pain:
As guinea pigs are naturally prey animals, they instinctively hide pain to prevent appearing as a weak animal within the group. As a result it may be difficult to tell if they are hurting. If you notice changes in behavior, or unusual avoidance of handling, call your veterinarian for advice.
Parasites:
Guinea pigs can occasionally harbor skin (ecto-) parasites, which may not always be visible to the naked eye. Fortunately these parasites are not zoonotic, meaning your guinea pig cannot give them to you. Treatment with a topical product called Revolution(R) (active ingredient, selamectin) is a very effective method of controlling ectoparasites. Ivermectin is also effective, and is given either as an injection or orally. These medications must be prescribed by your veterinarian. It is not uncommon for pet store bought guinea pigs will harbor lice or mites. For this reason, it is a good idea to have a newly acquired guinea pig examined by a veterinarian before introducing the new cavy to other cavies in your home.
Teeth:
As guinea pigs are rodents, their teeth grow constantly. The constant availability of roughage (grass hay) is of critical importance in maintaining your guinea pig's dental health. It is also helpful, and fun for your guinea pig, if you include a chew stick (available in most pet shops) or piece of fruit wood for them to gnaw on. Dental examinations are an important part of your guinea pig's health plan. You can easily monitor the incisors (front teeth), but it is difficult to see the premolars and molars (cheek teeth) without an oral speculum. To see the incisors, hold your guinea gently but firmly in one hand, with one finger behind the head to support, lean your pet back. If this doesn't expose the teeth, gently push on the lips to show them. The teeth should appear straight; the top and bottom teeth should overlap only slightly (top over bottom- if they are the other way round, you should consult with your veterinarian). Normal incisors are off-white to yellow in color. Normal mandibular (lower) incisors often appear quite long to the untrained eye. If the incisors curve away from each other or are excessively long, consult your veterinarian. Never attempt to trim or clip your guinea pig's incisors by yourself. This may result in a fractured incisor, which is painful, and may cause further dental problems in the future.
Feeding bowls:
Ceramic dishes are best for feeding, as is true for most animals. Do not feed in plastic, because this can precipitate various health conditions.
Diet:
Guinea pigs should eat a balanced diet of hay, pellets, and fresh fruits and vegetables. The latter are especially important because guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C. Pellets contain vitamin C, but most experts believe it is important to supplement them. Other C sources include red and green bell peppers, broccoli, kale, cabbage, spinach, chicory, and leaf lettuces.
Guinea pigs and other pets:
Obviously, cats, dogs and ferrets are predators and may kill a small furry creature. However, there are cases of guinea pigs getting along with them, and often as not cats may not know what to think of a guinea pig or even be scared of it. Dogs may be trained to accept guinea pigs as well. Chiefly, never leave a guinea pig alone with any predatory animal, however well-trained. Co housing of guinea pigs with other rodents such as gerbils, rats and hamsters may increase instances of respiratory and other infections, and such rodents may act aggressively towards the guinea pig. Opinion is divided over the co housing of guinea pigs and domestic rabbits. Some published sources say that guinea pigs and rabbits complement each other well when sharing a cage. However, as lagomorphs, rabbits have different nutritional requirements, and so the two species cannot be fed the same food. Rabbits may also harbor diseases (such as the respiratory infections Bordetella and Pasteurella), which guinea pigs are susceptible to. Even a dwarf rabbit is much stronger and more aggressive than the guinea pig and may cause intentional or inadvertent injury.
Note: Always use caution when introducing your guinea pig to other household pets. That is not to say that they can't coexist with each other. A prime example of a cat and a guinea pig enjoying each others company can be seen by two of our members here in Critterville, named Sandy and Angel. To see their page click on the hotlink below:
critterville.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=avenger&action=display&thread=160
Breeding:
Breeding Pregnant sows have a 25% chance of having a fatal pregnancy complication. It is advisable to not breed guinea pigs, unless you know 100% of what you're doing, you're able to find homes for them, and you know what breeds can cause problems if they cross.
Symptoms to watch for:
These might warrant immediate attention by a veterinarian: decreased appetite, weight loss or gain, discharge from eyes or nose, diarrhea, limping, lethargy, hair loss, and lumps or bumps.
Guinea Pigs are also highly susceptible to cancer of the bladder. Two of my guinea pigs past on at the age of about 6 to 7 years old due to cancer of the bladder. Note that one was a male and the other a female, and they were brother and sister, and both were either neutered or spayed.
Life Expectancy:
Typically the age of four for a guinea pig is considered to be quite old and it isn't unheard of for a guinea pig to only live four years, so the typical expectation you should have for your guinea pigs life expectancy is generally four to seven years old.
Pain:
As guinea pigs are naturally prey animals, they instinctively hide pain to prevent appearing as a weak animal within the group. As a result it may be difficult to tell if they are hurting. If you notice changes in behavior, or unusual avoidance of handling, call your veterinarian for advice.
Parasites:
Guinea pigs can occasionally harbor skin (ecto-) parasites, which may not always be visible to the naked eye. Fortunately these parasites are not zoonotic, meaning your guinea pig cannot give them to you. Treatment with a topical product called Revolution(R) (active ingredient, selamectin) is a very effective method of controlling ectoparasites. Ivermectin is also effective, and is given either as an injection or orally. These medications must be prescribed by your veterinarian. It is not uncommon for pet store bought guinea pigs will harbor lice or mites. For this reason, it is a good idea to have a newly acquired guinea pig examined by a veterinarian before introducing the new cavy to other cavies in your home.
Teeth:
As guinea pigs are rodents, their teeth grow constantly. The constant availability of roughage (grass hay) is of critical importance in maintaining your guinea pig's dental health. It is also helpful, and fun for your guinea pig, if you include a chew stick (available in most pet shops) or piece of fruit wood for them to gnaw on. Dental examinations are an important part of your guinea pig's health plan. You can easily monitor the incisors (front teeth), but it is difficult to see the premolars and molars (cheek teeth) without an oral speculum. To see the incisors, hold your guinea gently but firmly in one hand, with one finger behind the head to support, lean your pet back. If this doesn't expose the teeth, gently push on the lips to show them. The teeth should appear straight; the top and bottom teeth should overlap only slightly (top over bottom- if they are the other way round, you should consult with your veterinarian). Normal incisors are off-white to yellow in color. Normal mandibular (lower) incisors often appear quite long to the untrained eye. If the incisors curve away from each other or are excessively long, consult your veterinarian. Never attempt to trim or clip your guinea pig's incisors by yourself. This may result in a fractured incisor, which is painful, and may cause further dental problems in the future.
Feeding bowls:
Ceramic dishes are best for feeding, as is true for most animals. Do not feed in plastic, because this can precipitate various health conditions.
Diet:
Guinea pigs should eat a balanced diet of hay, pellets, and fresh fruits and vegetables. The latter are especially important because guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C. Pellets contain vitamin C, but most experts believe it is important to supplement them. Other C sources include red and green bell peppers, broccoli, kale, cabbage, spinach, chicory, and leaf lettuces.
Guinea pigs and other pets:
Obviously, cats, dogs and ferrets are predators and may kill a small furry creature. However, there are cases of guinea pigs getting along with them, and often as not cats may not know what to think of a guinea pig or even be scared of it. Dogs may be trained to accept guinea pigs as well. Chiefly, never leave a guinea pig alone with any predatory animal, however well-trained. Co housing of guinea pigs with other rodents such as gerbils, rats and hamsters may increase instances of respiratory and other infections, and such rodents may act aggressively towards the guinea pig. Opinion is divided over the co housing of guinea pigs and domestic rabbits. Some published sources say that guinea pigs and rabbits complement each other well when sharing a cage. However, as lagomorphs, rabbits have different nutritional requirements, and so the two species cannot be fed the same food. Rabbits may also harbor diseases (such as the respiratory infections Bordetella and Pasteurella), which guinea pigs are susceptible to. Even a dwarf rabbit is much stronger and more aggressive than the guinea pig and may cause intentional or inadvertent injury.
Note: Always use caution when introducing your guinea pig to other household pets. That is not to say that they can't coexist with each other. A prime example of a cat and a guinea pig enjoying each others company can be seen by two of our members here in Critterville, named Sandy and Angel. To see their page click on the hotlink below:
critterville.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=avenger&action=display&thread=160
Breeding:
Breeding Pregnant sows have a 25% chance of having a fatal pregnancy complication. It is advisable to not breed guinea pigs, unless you know 100% of what you're doing, you're able to find homes for them, and you know what breeds can cause problems if they cross.
Symptoms to watch for:
These might warrant immediate attention by a veterinarian: decreased appetite, weight loss or gain, discharge from eyes or nose, diarrhea, limping, lethargy, hair loss, and lumps or bumps.
Guinea Pigs are also highly susceptible to cancer of the bladder. Two of my guinea pigs past on at the age of about 6 to 7 years old due to cancer of the bladder. Note that one was a male and the other a female, and they were brother and sister, and both were either neutered or spayed.
Life Expectancy:
Typically the age of four for a guinea pig is considered to be quite old and it isn't unheard of for a guinea pig to only live four years, so the typical expectation you should have for your guinea pigs life expectancy is generally four to seven years old.